Nola day two

Required experiences: food, beignets, street theater, second line, jazz

We went to the jazz brunch at Court of Two Sisters and had spectacular Eggs Benedict (not offered at our hotel, oddly), jambalaya, ham, shrimp, apple cobbler, bread pudding, curry, bacon, sausage, grits, cornbread, and braised lamb. You know. As you do.

(I should apologize to anyone nearby who had to witness my two fisted eating. It was like Scarlett O'Hara on her honeymoon in New Orleans, packing it in while pointing at the dessert tray.)

After a visit back to our room to ... make room for new food, we went sightseeing for an hour until my foot hit a hole and I fell in slow motion to the pavement. My glasses flew off, a crowd gathered, a police officer was there, it was humiliating. Most people left after I insisted I was fine, really just fine, a few more moved after Gary hauled me up and I took a few steps, and then the last guy and the police officer noticed my toe was bleeding. So, back to the hotel for bandaids and a forced rest prescribed by Dr. Gary. That lasted an hour.

Then, another few hours of wandering the FQ and watching the street performers before Gary's energy flagged. We stocked up on beignets at cafe du monde and ate them on our balcony in the rain. Even fifty thousand calories of fried sugar didn't perk him up, so he started a nap.

I was nearly napping too when he said, "There's a band right outside." He went to the balcony and said, "Huh. It's like a little parade."

So, of course, I vaulted out of bed, because when else will I get to see a jazz funeral? As it turns out, funerals aren't the only thing to inspire residents to march the streets twirling hankies It could have been a wedding. I feel better knowing someone didn't have to die to entertain me.

For dinner I chose an alcoholic beverage, then posted here, regrettably.

The day ended with a guided tour of the jazz clubs on Frenchman street. I had expected more people on the music tour than just the two of us, but the guide explained they like to keep it small so seating is more practical. I know it seems we could have visited clubs in our own, but this guy knew who the best bands were, when they started, when they went on break, and so on. If we wanted to move on to another club he'd scout them to see that we got a continuous three hours of music. Gary mentioned his father had said bass drums and washboards were classic jazz, the guide popped out, and then the next club featured a washboard artist.

We were on Frenchman street when a brass band of ten year olds gathered on a corner and jammed, and then other musicians joined in, then in about ten minutes the street was filled with all manner of brass just jamming and riffing and having a great time, and the street was dancing, and cars were honking, and I thought: this city does for fun what Paris did for romance. Just embrace it and then send it so far over the top that you can only stand back and laugh.

SO much fun.

Comments

[Tami]

I loved that there was jazz EVERYWHERE in New Orleans. Like there are slot machines everywhere in Vegas, but you know, *good*.

[Thequeen]

Tami - We just heard a really greatclarinet player in Jackson square. The buskers have been so good Gary doesn't want to go to Frenchman street again.